This report on the religious reality in Saudi Arabia is is a masterpiece by my former AP colleague, Ben Hubbard. Considering how hard it is to report from Saudi Arabia, he does a thorough job.
Missing is the voice of the common person on the street–but that’s understandable, considering the restrictions reporters face there. He notes that non-Muslims, even reporters, are not allowed to enter Mecca, for example. This is a long, long article–and worth every minute of your time to read it.